STYLE
Once costume, twice costume

Classic black suit is a garment basis for any self-respected drag-king. You can be an adherent of any style, possessing any line, but the lack of the suit in you wardrobe means that your career as a travesty hasn't worked well.


Suit kinds
Suits can be formal (business) and informal (a little bit simplified constructions of formal suit classic models). A jacket-and-trousers (differed by the color) set is considered to be informal also. Suits can also be called as special (including tailcoat and dinner jackets for particularly solemn cases). Club jacket is blue one, fit out with metal buttons (many wear such suits every day, contradicting the rules). Such jacket is used with light-gray trousers. Jackets can also be divided into double-breasted and single-breasted.

What suits are used by drags.
Classic drag smart clothes are represented by black suit, black tie and white shirt. As mentioned above, it is conditioned not by any laws, but rather by elementary not longing for looking foolishly, being in not fitting clothes. Nevertheless, for self-esteemed drag it's necessary to obtain several, fitting each other, suits.

How to choose a suit
First point to be noticed is a textile. In a standstill times members of foreign delegations usually embraced our Party bonzes rather jerky. But the goal was not an embraces, but an aspiration to touch the jacket' textile. Nowadays you won't be embraced for the achieving this goal, but the textile of your coat will be noticed inevitably. So the suit textile has to consist at least in 45-65% of wool. An addition of synthetic fiber imparts wrinkle resistance and longevity to the textile. A material of pure wool is rumpled easily, if only it is not weaved, using special technologies - a producer will not fail to notify a customer about it. So it can be a label, indicated as "high twist" or "processed by teflon". You may control a mixture of textile, used for the lining: the best variant would be a viscose, letting your body "breath", not hardening air circulation.

Second step - the quality of clothe' treatment. You may notice a straightforwardness of seams, whether lapels and collar are wrinkling, whether leaflets are situated evenly, whether there are swelling or silhouette distortions. There is one more important aspect: ironing. It's impossible to iron suit properly in the atelier conditions. That is why a very expensive ironing line was bought for the FOSP. But now all suits, offered for the sale, are ironed perfectly. Remember: it's not always possible to get rid of such blemish as shining stripes and tracks of inner stitches, appeared after ironing. And it's rather indecent - wearing glossy (because of excessive ironing) suit. Next, we are looking at the loops processing: they must be even, equally configured. It's desirable for the suit sleeve to obtain four buttons, because clothes without buttons on the sleeve are considered to be low-grade. You should consider also general view of the suit, remembering that, though the price determines quality, it's not worthy to choose price as a "blind" expert.

Looking after a suit
It's better not to launder or iron a tie, because it may loose it's form and become worthless. Dry-cleaning will salvage it from stains, while there is rather simple way of redeeming out of pleats: neatly wind a tie round your finger, take it off and leave in this form for some time. In no circumstances you shouldn't turn your head out of once made loop. You'd better spread it, in inverted sequence to the binding. And it it's not worthy to yield to the desire of extracting the narrow tag out of the knot. It may injure even high-quality tie. Then you'll have to hang a tie up to the peg and leave for a couple of days. For the storing of a big tie collection matches special wardrobes. You may also use a peg for the ties, but try not to allow contacts with other clothes. If you are planning giving performances on tour, you'd better buy special plain case, where you can station a couple of ties, a shirt, a shawl and other
accessories.

How to wear a suit
Special consideration here is given to the tie binding. Here exist some psychological peculiarities. Very self-confident person leaves a tie to be too long, almost reaching knees. Timid person, on the contrary, makes a tie to look very short, like soviet films' combine operators out of 50s. In fact, a tie tip must only reach an upper or middle part of the belt. Wide ties, permissive towards forming a big hard knot, are rather actual nowadays. While binding up a tie you should consider it to be rather tight. It looks beautifully, when at the knot entry there are one or two plaits, but it happens only in case of using a wide tie.

Drag note
Trousers with the glands are affordable only for the tall women, or, at least, for those, who doesn't feel any complexes, considering their height: a transverse line decreases a height visually. Long trousers, lowered to the shoes, remain actual too. Jerking, frock coat-looking jackets usually accentuate a waist, increasing a bam visually. So if you feel a problem with your own bam, you'd better pay attention to the lengthened straight jackets, reaching the middle of the hip. They are used, as a rule, with neck shawls and turn-down collars both. If you are a large-scaled lady, owning large breast and other delights, you may face a trouble: your head may seem senselessly small, in comparison with broad (because of bats) shoulders. So you ought to be anxious about an adornment. Here everything will be fitted for, starting with bandana, ending with the hat.


(c) Drag.Lesbiru.Com July 2002
Rested upon the site (c) materials Pressa.spb.ru, eStart.ru